In a nutshell
- Our insider Rebecca lived in Tuscany for several years and shares her favorite off the beaten path spots that most tourists never find.
- Between San Gimignano and Volterra lies the abandoned medieval village of Castelvecchio — ancient ruins in the middle of the forest, with almost no other visitors.
- The hot springs of Petriolo are just as beautiful as the famous thermal springs of Saturnia, but far less crowded — and completely free to swim in.
The Abandoned Village of Castelvecchio
After sightseeing in San Gimignano and exploring the highlights of Volterra — both of which rank among the most beautiful places in Tuscany — the lonely ruins of the medieval village of Castelvecchio make for a seriously welcome change of pace on your Tuscany road trip.
What you can still see today are the foundations of former houses, the tower of a castle rising out of dense forest, and the walls of a small chapel.
There’s also an old stone millwheel lying in the middle of tall grass — it’s one of those details that makes the place feel genuinely haunting.
In the Middle Ages, Castelvecchio was an important border settlement between the rival cities of San Gimignano and Volterra.
The pilgrimage route Via Francigena, which connected Rome with France, also passed near Castelvecchio.
The decline began in the 14th century, when after numerous wars between Volterra and San Gimignano, the border between the two spheres of influence shifted by three kilometers.
Castelvecchio was suddenly little more than an insignificant spot in the forests of San Gimignano, and gradually all its residents moved away.
It wasn’t until the 1970s that the site was excavated again — by which point the forest had completely swallowed it up.
Very few people make it out here, since the area is far from any town. That’s exactly what makes it so peaceful.
How to get to Castelvecchio
Castelvecchio is listed on Google Maps, so it’s easy to find.
The ruins are located in the nature reserve of the same name, about 20 minutes by car from San Gimignano.
From San Gimignano, take country road SP47 heading south until you reach the village of San Donato, then turn right — you’ll spot the brown road sign for Castelvecchio there.
You can park at the Agriturismo Castelvecchio and walk about 15 minutes through the forest to the ruins.
The Castle Ruins of Rocca Silvana
Thanks to its panoramic setting, Rocca Silvana is one of the most impressive castle ruins in Tuscany — and one of its best-kept secrets.
The castle sits on a 600-meter-high hill of Monte Amiata, surrounded on all sides by steep rocky gorges. The views alone are worth the trip.
The fortress was particularly prosperous in the Middle Ages, serving as an important base for the mining of cinnabar and mercury.
It remained inhabited until the 17th century, when it slowly began to fall into disrepair.
Today, thanks to restoration work, several parts are still well preserved. You can visit the double ring of walls, the count’s palace, and the pentagonal tower — though only from the outside, since the interior spaces are sealed off due to the risk of collapse.
This is absolutely one of those off the beaten path Tuscany spots that most visitors never find. The forest paths leading to the ruins are rocky and unpaved, so good shoes and long pants are a must.
How to get to Rocca Silvana
Rocca Silvana is listed on Google Maps.
The castle complex is located in the far south of Tuscany, along road SP Selvena.
Between the villages of Selvena and Querciola, you’ll find a free parking lot right in the middle of the countryside. From there it’s about a 10-minute walk to the castle.
The Hot Springs of Petriolo
Besides the well-known thermal springs of Saturnia, Tuscany has other spots where sulfurous water bubbles up from the ground — and this is one of the best Tuscany hidden gems if you want to soak in peace.
Petriolo is far less famous than Saturnia, which means significantly fewer crowds.
The springs sit in the forest, not far from the road connecting Siena and Grosseto. The water bubbles out of the rock into small natural pools that have formed over thousands of years, eventually flowing down into the little river Farma.
That riverside location is super handy in summer — when the thermal water gets too hot, you can cool off in the river right next to it.
Swimming is free, just like at Saturnia. There are no changing rooms or lockers, so leave your valuables in the car.
How to get to the hot springs of Petriolo
The thermal springs are about half an hour south of Siena, along country road SS223 toward Grosseto.
If you’re coming from Siena, after about 28 kilometers take the exit toward Iesa onto the SP Petriolo. The springs are signposted from there.
The Ancient Hollow Ways of Pitigliano
Over 2,500 years ago, the Etruscans carved hollow ways several meters deep into the tufa stone in the countryside around Pitigliano.
When and why? Nobody knows. Historians are still puzzled, with theories ranging from rainwater drainage channels to trade routes to religious cult sites.
The hollow ways — called “Vie Cave” in Italian — are unlike anything else in Tuscany: narrow, partly dark passages through the middle of the forest, with rock walls reaching up to 20 meters high in places, passing by ancient burial sites along the way.
The Vie Cave see very few visitors, which gives them a wonderfully mystical — and slightly eerie — atmosphere. They’re perfect for a walk in the woods that’s a little out of the ordinary.
There are four different hollow ways to explore. The most impressive and longest is the Via Cava di San Giuseppe. Wear sturdy shoes — the path can be uneven and slippery in places.
How to get to the hollow ways of Pitigliano
There are several hollow ways around Pitigliano — you can even follow them all the way to the nearby Etruscan village of Sovana, about six kilometers away.
From Via Porta Sovana in Pitigliano, the Via Cava di Poggio Cani begins (it’s signposted). It leads through the forest, across a stream, to a public picnic area.
From there, the Via Cava di San Giuseppe begins — the longest and most beautiful of the lot. Along the way you’ll find an Etruscan necropolis and an ancient well, the Fontana dell’Olmo.
The Sunken Village in the Vagli Reservoir
In the beautiful mountain region of Garfagnana, in northern Tuscany, lies the largest reservoir in the area.
What makes it special isn’t its size — it’s the secret hiding beneath the surface: the sunken village of Fabbriche di Careggine.
The village was flooded during the construction of the dam in the 1950s, after all its residents were forced to relocate. It includes several small stone houses and a Romanesque church from the 13th century.
When the water level drops particularly low in summer, you can faintly make out the tip of the church tower poking through the surface.
Roughly every ten to fifteen years, the reservoir is drained for renovation work on the dam — and that’s when the ghostly village reappears. The last time this happened was in 1994, so the next occasion is long overdue.
2021 was supposed to finally be the year, though the exact timing remained uncertain due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Even without the village appearing, a trip to the lake is really worth it: the scenery is stunning, and perched on a hill along the shore is the charming mountain village of Vagli Sotto, with great views of the surrounding forests and the Apuan Alps.
How to get to the Vagli Reservoir
From the A11 highway between Lucca and Florence, take the Capannori exit and follow signs toward Borgo a Mozzano — which is also home to the famous Devil’s Bridge, well worth a stop in its own right.
From Borgo a Mozzano, the lake is well signposted and still about 40 minutes away by car.
From Lucca, the drive to the lake takes about one hour and 20 minutes.
