In a nutshell
- The Trastevere neighborhood is a highlight in its own right — if you’re in Rome, you absolutely have to visit.
- Trastevere has one of Rome’s best nightlife scenes. In summer, the alleyways are packed with people well into the night.
- The area is also famous for its restaurants — you’ll find some of Rome’s best trattorias right here, and we’ve picked our favorites for you.
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What you need to know about Trastevere
Walls covered in ivy, cobblestone streets, string lights, colorful clotheslines — and plenty of trattorias, bars, and chatty people well into the night. Trastevere is Italy at its most authentic.
If you want to eat really well, you need to go to Trastevere.
If you want to experience quintessential Italian nightlife, you need to go to Trastevere.
If you want to wander storybook historic alleyways, you need to go to Trastevere.
All the highlights in Trastevere on one map
So you know exactly where everything is, we’ve marked all the highlights from this article on a map of Trastevere.
Sights in Trastevere
You can simply wander through Trastevere and let the neighborhood guide you, or head straight to the highlights. Here’s everything worth seeing in Rome’s Trastevere district:
Lungotevere Night Market
Between the two Tiber bridges Ponte Sublicio and Ponte Sisto, a night market runs every evening along the riverbank throughout the summer.
Alongside numerous stalls selling crafts, clothing, and accessories, you’ll also find street food, music, and entertainment.
The night market runs each year from early June to late August. It opens every evening at 7 PM and runs until midnight.
Piazza Trilussa
During the day, Piazza Trilussa is nothing out of the ordinary — but make sure you swing by around sunset.
It’s one of the main gathering spots in Trastevere. The fountain steps become a meeting point for locals and tourists alike, all settling in for an aperitivo before heading to dinner at one of the neighborhood’s restaurants.
Street musicians and performers keep things lively, making it the perfect place to wind down the day or kick off the evening.
Terrazza del Gianicolo
The Terrazza del Gianicolo is probably the best viewpoint in all of Rome. Fondly called Terrazza de Roma by locals, it delivers a stunning panorama of the city’s most famous landmarks, including the Pantheon and St. Peter’s Basilica.
The terrace is just a short walk further up the hill from the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola.
At the top, a small kiosk serves up delicious cocktails in the summer, which you can enjoy while soaking in the view at your leisure. Honestly, it’s the perfect way to wrap up the day.
One more thing: from the Gianicolo, you can reach the Vatican with about a 1.5-kilometer walk, passing additional viewpoints and sights along the way.
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere
Piazza Santa Maria is the central square of Trastevere.
During the day it’s a typical piazza with a fountain like you’d find across Italy; in the evening it transforms into a popular hub of Roman nightlife. The square is home to the church of the same name, plus a handful of bars and restaurants.
You can also go inside the church — entry is free. It’s one of the oldest churches in Rome and is packed with stunning mosaics.
Underground Church of San Crisogono
Beneath the Church of San Crisogono lies a hidden, far older church dating back to the 4th century.
The church was buried in the 12th century, and the current Basilica of San Crisogono was built six meters above it to match the neighborhood’s rising ground level.
This underground church is one of the oldest in Rome — and even though it was hidden for 700 years, you can still see partially well-preserved wall paintings.
You reach the underground basilica via a staircase from the sacristy of the current church.
Book the underground church tour
Ancient Pharmacy of Santa Maria della Scala
The Spezieria Santa Maria della Scala is one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe and has been run by a religious order since the 16th century. Today it operates as a museum.
You can explore the Baroque counter with its many cabinets, vials, and instruments, as well as the laboratory where monks prepared medicines from herbs, minerals, and animal products.
It was also known as the Pharmacy of the Popes, as Rome’s popes had their ailments treated here over the centuries.
Among the curiosities on display, you’ll find the old cure-all theriac, used in antiquity and the Middle Ages as an antidote for snakebites and other ailments.
Note: The pharmacy is at Via della Scala 23 and can only be visited by prior appointment via email at anticafarmaciadellascala@gmail.com.
By the way: in Florence, there’s an even older pharmacy — the Farmacia Santa Maria Novella — which is still in operation today.
Fontana dell'Acqua Paola
This fountain is somewhat reminiscent of the Trevi Fountain — but far less crowded, and it comes with a spectacular vista over Rome.
The Fontana dell’Acqua Paola sits above Trastevere on the Gianicolo hill, about a ten-minute walk from Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.
The Baroque fountain is especially stunning at sunset, when it’s beautifully lit up.
It’s a popular spot for wedding photo shoots and has served as a film backdrop more than once — the opening scene of the Oscar-winning film The Great Beauty was shot right here.
Villa Farnesina
Villa Farnesina was built in the 16th century by the banker Agostino Chigi, who wanted a palace in Rome that reflected the Renaissance style of his home region of Tuscany.
The villa is especially famous for its magnificent halls and stunning ceiling paintings, some of which were created by Raphael.
Villa Farnesina is one of the few places in Rome where you can admire works by artists of this caliber without being pushed from room to room by crowds. Seriously worth a visit.
Our Restaurant Tips in Trastevere
The Trastevere neighborhood has a seriously impressive number of great restaurants. Romans and tourists alike consider it the best area in Rome for dining out.
Most restaurants are only open during mealtimes — from noon to 2 PM, then again from 8 PM.
For more advice on eating and drinking in Italy, our Italy etiquette guide has you covered.
Here are our restaurant picks in Trastevere:
Trattoria da Enzo al 29 – A small, simple spot with just a few tables, but outstanding Roman cuisine. They don’t take reservations, so your best bet is to arrive early or late. This little trattoria has been around since the 1950s and serves an incredibly good amatriciana.
Trattoria da Augusto – Here you’ll find mostly Italian guests, which in Italy is always a good sign! No website, no frills — just solid Roman home cooking from a small menu that changes daily. No reservations here either.
Tonnarello – Even older is Tonnarello, which has been around since 1876. Spaghetti cacio e pepe is served not in ordinary ceramic bowls but in small pans. Again, no reservations — but the wait for a table is absolutely worth it!
Cool Hotels in Trastevere
First things first: if it’s your first time in Rome, you should not stay in Trastevere. Getting from Trastevere to the Colosseum or other major attractions by public transit is not straightforward.
For neighborhoods that work better as a base, check out our Rome hotel tips.
That said, if you already know Rome and just want to stay in a lively, authentically Italian neighborhood, Trastevere is perfect.
Here are our hotel recommendations in Trastevere:
Tankara Suite – Our favorite hotel in Trastevere and one of our favorite boutique hotels in Rome. Great value for money, beautiful rooms, and you’re just one bridge crossing away from Rome’s main highlights.
Trastever Holiday – One of the most affordable places to stay in Trastevere and therefore booked up well in advance. Rooms are very basic, but clean.
Trastevere 143 – Stylish rooms in the heart of Trastevere. The owner Edoardo is super friendly and attentive, and the building is surrounded by countless bars and shops.
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How to Get to Trastevere
When we were in Rome and staying in the Monti neighborhood, we took a taxi to Trastevere in the evenings. That was the easiest option, since Trastevere isn’t the best-connected part of the city.
Otherwise, only buses serve Trastevere — the metro doesn’t reach it. From the main train station Termini, bus line H runs directly to Trastevere.
If you’re staying in the southern part of the historic center — near Campo de’ Fiori, for example — you can also walk to Trastevere on foot. You just need to cross the Ponte Sisto bridge.
