In a nutshell
- Portovenere is one of the most beautiful villages in Liguria — and while it’s right next door to the Cinque Terre, it’s much less crowded. An absolute must-see.
- The top highlight is the Chiesa San Pietro, perched on a rock above the sea — seriously one of the most spectacular church settings in all of Italy.
- Portovenere has no sandy beaches — only rocks and small pebble coves. It’s not the place for a classic beach vacation, but it’s fantastic for diving and snorkeling!
- For accommodation, we recommend the Torre a Mare — you’ll sleep in an authentic medieval watchtower right on the water.
What You Need to Know About Portovenere
Portovenere is a small fishing village at the very tip of the Gulf of Poets and one of our favorite spots in Liguria.
Because it’s so beautiful, many people call it the sixth village of the Cinque Terre.
Officially, however, it’s not part of the national park — even though it’s practically right around the corner.
So if you’re in the south of Liguria and visiting the Cinque Terre, Portovenere should definitely be on your itinerary!
Our Top 6 Things to Do in Portovenere
Portovenere is small, and you can easily reach all the highlights on foot. Within a single day, you’ll have seen everything this place has to offer.
Palazzata a Mare
Palazzata a Mare refers to the colorful building façade that appears in almost every photo of Portovenere.
The multi-story palazzos stand directly along the harbor promenade and make for a perfect photo opportunity.
The best view is from the viewpoint at Terrazza del Molo, where the fishing boats dock.
Old Town
The old town sits right behind the Palazzata a Mare.
Several staircases lead from the harbor promenade through the colorful palazzos into the narrow canyon streets.
Alternatively, you can enter through the city gate from Piazza Bastreri.
With its tiny alleyways, the historic center is great for wandering around — it’s full of small shops and restaurants.
Because the buildings are several stories tall and the alleyways so narrow, it’s always pleasantly shady in summer.
Chiesa San Pietro
The Chiesa San Pietro is one of the most impressive churches in Italy — and it’s all about the location.
It was built on a rock directly above the sea. It’s the first sight of Portovenere you’ll see when arriving by boat from the Cinque Terre.
You can’t always go inside, but that’s okay — the real reason to come up here is the spectacular view.
The church includes a loggia with arched windows offering a stunning panorama of the coastline. It’s always free to enter.
Castello Doria
Castello Doria is a medieval fortress above Portovenere with the best panoramic views in the village.
From up here you can see the entire village, the Chiesa San Pietro, and the island of Palmaria lying directly opposite.
From the old quarter, you’ll need to walk uphill a bit. There isn’t much to see inside the castle itself — no exhibition rooms or anything like that.
Still, you’ll pay a €5 entry fee — but the vista makes it totally worth it.
Byron's Grotto
The path down to Byron’s Grotto is located below the Chiesa San Pietro, so you can easily combine both in one go.
You won’t visit the grotto directly — instead, you descend via a rocky staircase to a swimming spot from which you can look right into the cave.
Byron’s Grotto gets its name from the English poet Lord Byron, who loved to swim here. He’s said to have even swum from this spot all the way to Lerici, several kilometers away.
In summer, this is also a seriously great place for a dip — the water is beautifully clear.
Palmaria Island
Palmaria Island lies directly opposite Portovenere and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Palmaria also includes two smaller islands, Tino and Tinetto.
On Palmaria, you can hike, explore the dramatic cliffs on the south side, or discover the many sea caves — including the Grotta Azzurra and the Grotta dei Colombi.
The Grotta Azzurra is a popular stop on boat tours and gets its name from the azure-blue water.
The Grotta dei Colombi, on the other hand, is only for experienced climbers — 5,000-year-old graves were found here.
Ferries run daily from Portovenere to Palmaria in summer. Alternatively, you can book a private boat tour that takes you to all three islands. Snorkeling is included too!
Our tip: Sit on the right side of the boat for the best view.
Where to Stay in Portovenere
Most visitors to Portovenere come only as day-trippers. As a result, the selection of accommodation is fairly limited.
But if you spend the night here, you’ll experience Portovenere from a completely different angle — in the evening, when the crowds are gone, it’s so much quieter. Definitely worth it!
These are the three places to stay in Portovenere that we recommend for their great value for money:
Beaches in Portovenere
The coastline in this part of Liguria is very rocky.
There are plenty of swimming spots, but they’re made up of rocks or large pebbles. So Portovenere isn’t the best choice for a beach vacation with young children.
For snorkeling or diving, though, it’s absolutely perfect — Portovenere sits within a marine protected area, the water is incredibly clean, and there are fish and corals everywhere.
A popular spot is the pebble beach of Arenella, at the entrance to the village. There’s an admission fee, and you should reserve a sun umbrella in advance. A sun umbrella with two lounge chairs costs around €30 per day.
Our tip: For sandy beaches, you’re better off heading to Lerici or Monterosso. Both are just a few kilometers from Portovenere.
Lies auch:
Restaurant Tips in Portovenere
Portovenere is touristy, but nowhere near as overcrowded as the Cinque Terre. There are also several genuinely good restaurants that aren’t tourist traps. Here’s what we’d recommend:
- Portivene: Stylish restaurant on a small alley — perfect for wine lovers.
- Torre di Venere: Great outdoor terrace with views of the Chiesa San Pietro. Perfect for a romantic dinner.
- La Chiglia: Beachside restaurant with tables either indoors or right on the sand. Don’t leave without trying the tagliolini with shrimp and white truffle!
Getting to Portovenere
By car, it’s about 20 minutes from La Spezia to Portovenere. You’ll drive along a really beautiful coastal road hugging the edge of the Gulf of Poets. The road ends right in Portovenere, so you can’t go wrong.
The city bus also runs and takes about 35 minutes. The stop from La Spezia is at the harbor on Piazza Chiodo.
Alternatively, you can reach Portovenere from La Spezia by ferry line 01, which takes about 45 minutes.
From the Cinque Terre, getting to Portovenere is easy too: for the adventurous, there’s a five-hour hiking trail between Riomaggiore and Portovenere.
If you’d rather take it easy, hop on ferry line 02 from any village in the Cinque Terre — except Corniglia, which has no harbor.
Parking in Portovenere
A large part of Portovenere is a traffic-restricted zone, meaning only residents are allowed to drive there. This covers the entire area between Piazza Bastreri and the Chiesa San Pietro.
Outside of this zone, there are blue-marked parking spots along the streets where visitors can park. These cost between €2 and €3 per hour.
Note: White-marked parking spots are reserved for residents only.
Parking options in Portovenere are limited, so it’s best to arrive early in the morning — or simply come by bus or ferry.
