Peaks of the Balkans: Our Experience on the Long-Distance Hiking Trail

Key Facts About the Peaks of the Balkans at a Glance

Here’s a quick overview of the most important information about the trail:

• Countries: Albania, Kosovo, Montenegro
• Length: 192 kilometers
• Days/Stages: 10–12
• Difficulty: hard
• Accommodations: available (guesthouses)
• Food: meals at the guesthouses & soft drinks available for purchase

Now let’s dive into all the detailed tips for the Peaks of the Balkans!

Stages on the Peaks of the Balkans (+Map)

The official Peaks of the Balkans Trail is completed by most hikers in 10 days. These are the stages:

View all stages on Komoot

Many hikers skip the Kosovo section, though — which we’d also recommend. That’s because you’re hiking mostly on roads there.

You can also add extra days to summit one or two peaks in the Alps — the most popular is Mount Gjeravica in Kosovo.

Here’s our route suggestion for 9 days:

Can you hike the Peaks of the Balkans in 7 days?

Yes, completing the Peaks of the Balkans trek in 7 days is a popular option — especially if you’re short on time. Otherwise, we highly recommend our 9-day itinerary.

These are the stages for 7 days:

1. Theth – Valbona
2. Valbona – Çerem
3. Çerem – Dobërdoll
4. Dobërdoll – Babino Polje
5. Babino Polje – Plav
6. Plav – Vusanje
7. Vusanje – Theth

What’s the best way to navigate on the Peaks of the Balkans?

The trail is well marked on some stages and less so on others. You absolutely need an offline map on your phone.

We used the offline maps from MapsMe and the planned routes on Komoot.

Since you usually won’t have cell service on the trail, online maps won’t do you much good.

Hiking the Peaks of the Balkans Independently? Yes or No?

You can absolutely hike the Peaks of the Balkans on your own. Since it’s a popular long-distance trail, you’ll run into other hikers regularly along the way.

We also hiked the Peaks of the Balkans Trail independently and were really happy with it — not least because it gave us a lot of flexibility when it came to planning our stages.

On top of that, hiking without a guide is significantly cheaper.

We’d recommend a guided hiking tour if you don’t have much hiking experience and are worried about water shortages, wildlife, or injuries.

Guides know the area well and take care of all the logistics, so you can focus on the hiking. They can also share fascinating facts about the countries and landscapes.

Several providers offer guided Peaks of the Balkans tours. Most of them also offer self-guided tours — meaning they plan the hike and book accommodations for you, but you hike on your own.

Our top pick is the guided or self-guided tours from Balkan Natural Adventure.

Book a guided or self-guided Peaks of the Balkans tour

Accommodations on the Peaks of the Balkans

There are places to stay along the entire Peaks of the Balkans Trail — usually simple guesthouses, though some places also have proper hotels.

Here are our picks for where to stay on the Peaks of the Balkans (+ extra guesthouse tips):
Theth: Bujtina Kometa: (8/10) simple but very clean rooms, good dinner and breakfast, incredibly warm hosts, affordable prices. Recommended! Good alternative: Guesthouse Gjin Thana.

Valbona: Bujtina Arturi: (8/10) very nice rooms, good dinner, breakfast and lunch pack are fine. Recommended! Good alternative: Villas Jezerca.

Çerem: VITA Guesthouse (7/10) Watch out — overpriced on Booking. Better to book directly via WhatsApp. Delicious food and simple rooms. Good alternative: Guesthouse Kujtim Gocaj.

Dobërdoll: Bashkimi Guesthouse (8/10) simple accommodation (that’s the norm in Dobërdoll), shared bathrooms, tasty food, pleasant atmosphere. Good alternative: Bilbil Vatnikaj Guest House.

Milishevc: Kulla Guesthouse (9/10) lovely guesthouse with simple rooms, very tasty food, and super friendly hosts. One of our favorites! Good alternative: Chalet Rrusta.

Reka e Allagёs: Ariu Guesthouse (9/10) nice rooms with shared bathrooms, very tasty food, and kind hosts — some of whom also speak German.

Liqenat: Villa Route Rouge (10/10) We’d booked a room at the guesthouse but ended up with our own villa. Super friendly hosts and the breakfast at the nearby restaurant is outstanding.

Babino Polje: Eko Katu Hakun (6/10) The room was very basic and the whole place felt a bit odd. That said, the dinner was very tasty. We’ve heard better things about the Triangle Guesthouse.

Plav: Rooms Lida & Friendly Home (8/10): nice rooms in a family home with shared bathrooms. Meals aren’t included but are available. Good alternative: Ema Guesthouse.

Vusanje: Guest House GURI: We didn’t stay here ourselves, but it’s very highly rated and is our top recommendation for a guesthouse in Vusanje.

For most accommodations, we paid 35 euros per person, including breakfast, lunch, and dinner in a private room. Some places were a little cheaper or more expensive.

Don’t set your expectations too high for the rooms. They’re very basic and purely meant for sleeping — but we never felt uncomfortable anywhere.

Is there WiFi and power outlets at the accommodations?

Yes. We had WiFi at all the guesthouses, though it wasn’t always fast.

We often only had one outlet in the room, but that was enough.

Food on the Peaks of the Balkans

Is there food to buy on the Peaks of the Balkans?

Yes — when it comes to food, the Peaks of the Balkans hiking trail is very well set up. At almost every guesthouse, you can get breakfast, dinner, and a packed lunch.

Restaurants and supermarkets are only available in Plav in Montenegro. So make sure to stock up on snacks like nuts, crackers, cookies, or granola bars beforehand.

What’s the food like at the guesthouses?

Breakfast usually consists of bread, eggs, cheese, and vegetables. Occasionally we also got cake, soup, or fruit alongside. For hot drinks, there’s usually tea and sometimes coffee.

Your packed lunch is essentially the same food as breakfast — you usually assemble it yourself. You’ll typically find aluminum foil and plastic bags laid out so you can pack your food.

Our tip: The more sustainable option is to bring your own Tupperware and pack your food in that.

Dinner was also fairly similar at most places — it varies a little depending on whether you’re in Montenegro, Kosovo, or Albania.

In Albania, we typically had chicken, potatoes, vegetables, salad, cheese, bread, and soup. In Kosovo, instead of chicken we usually got a kind of blood sausage, and there was always pide on the side.

In Montenegro we only spent two nights — we had goulash with rice once and ćevapčići at a restaurant in Plav.

Tip: Liqenat and Plav are the only places with proper restaurants. In Liqenat, the Guri i Kuq restaurant is excellent, and in Plav, check out Restaurant Djerdan.

Is there drinking water on the trail?

At all the guesthouses on the Peaks of the Balkans, we were told we could drink the tap water. We did so most of the time and had absolutely no issues.

That said, we’ve also read that there have been norovirus cases in the past.

When we hiked in June 2025, that didn’t seem to be an issue anymore — we didn’t meet anyone who got sick.

For the hike, definitely pack a water bottle or hydration bladder that you can refill at springs.

Except for the Valbona – Çerem stage, we passed springs or local spots to refill water every day.

Our tip: Bring a filter or enough water purification tablets — that way you can be sure you’re drinking truly clean water. We’d go with a filter, since it’s much faster!

Buy a water filter online

Soft drinks/beer

You can buy soft drinks at all accommodations and sometimes at cafés along the way. The price is usually around 2 euros per can. Coca-Cola and lemon soda are especially popular — very refreshing on the trail.

Getting to the Peaks of the Balkans

You can start the trail at various points. The most popular starting points are Theth in Albania and Plav in Montenegro.

If you’re flying into Tirana or checking out some places in Albania beforehand, it’s best to start in Theth. If you’re flying into Podgorica or doing a road trip through Montenegro, start in Plav.

Getting to Theth, Albania

We started the Peaks of the Balkans in Theth. The best way to get there is from the town of Shkodra.

Shkodra is the last major town before Theth. Minibuses run from here to Theth. The fare is 12 euros per person, with two departures daily (6 AM and 2 PM).

The journey takes about two and a half hours. Buses depart from Hotel Rozafa.

Important: Theth is a small mountain village with limited infrastructure. If you need to pick up snacks, cash, or anything else for the trail, do it in Shkodra.

For the best way to reach Albania, check out our complete travel tips for Albania.

Getting to Plav, Montenegro

Plav is a proper town with restaurants, supermarkets, and more — which makes it an even slightly better starting point for the hike than Theth.

Buses run to Plav from the capital Podgorica several times a day. A ticket costs 12 euros per person (plus 1 euro for luggage). You can check schedules on BusTicket4.me. The journey takes three to four hours.

Getting to Reka e Allagёs/Liqenat, Kosovo

If you want to start the trail in Kosovo, Reka e Allagёs and Liqenat are your best options. Both are easily accessible by car.

There are no direct buses, however. You can take a bus along the M9 (from Peja to Kuqishta) and hitchhike or walk from there.

What to Pack for the Trail?

Packing right is really important for the Peaks of the Balkans Trail. You don’t want to lug an overly heavy backpack over the mountains, nor do you want to discover mid-hike that you’re missing something essential.

Our packing list for the Peaks of the Balkans

For hiking

• Hiking backpack with rain cover
• 2–3 hiking shirts (that cover the shoulders)
• 1–2 hiking pants (short and long)
• 1 long-sleeved hiking shirt
• Jacket or thick sweater
• Rain poncho
• Underwear & socks as needed
• Hiking boots
• Sunglasses
• Head protection (cap or buff)
• Insect repellent
• Sunscreen
• Large water bottle or hydration bladder (at least 1.5 liters)
• Water filter
• Phone with offline map & good camera
• First aid kit including blister bandages
• Optional: Trekking poles
• Tupperware (for packed lunches)

For evenings

• Flip flops
• Swim trunks/swimsuit
• Towel
• Standard toiletries (deodorant, toothpaste, toothbrush, etc.)
• Lip balm
• Earplugs
• Book, puzzle book, card games
• Charging cable

Documents & money

• Enough cash (500 euros per person is definitely sufficient)
• Passport
• Border permit

Important: Our packing list is designed for hikers staying in guesthouses, not for campers.

Where do you store your remaining luggage?

If you’re not traveling to Albania/Montenegro/Kosovo exclusively for the Peaks of the Balkans but also exploring other places, it’s best to leave part of your luggage where you start the hike.

Most accommodations in Theth, Plav, or Shkodra will store your luggage without any problem.

Permit for Border Crossings

During the hike you cross national borders but don’t pass through official border checkpoints. That’s why you need permits to cross the borders.

Our permit was never checked, and we didn’t hear of it being checked for anyone else either — but better safe than sorry. Besides, you can face fines if you don’t have one.

We tried to get the permit on our own at a police station in Albania, but that was simply impossible — so we applied through the Zbulo form. It worked without a hitch and cost us around 20 euros per person.

Fill out the form at least one week before starting the trail to receive the permits in time.

Is the Peaks of the Balkans Trail Dangerous?

No, all things considered, the trail is not dangerous. Like any mountain hike, it does carry risks — you should be aware of them and prepare accordingly.

Dangerous animals on the Peaks of the Balkans

The hiking area is home to venomous snakes, bears, wolves, and shepherd dogs. The chances of anything happening to you are very low, though.

Venomous snakes

You’ll almost certainly see a snake or two on the hike. The animals are very shy and will make themselves scarce as soon as they notice you.

Most snakes aren’t venomous — but venomous ones do exist here, including the European nose-horned viper, which is actually the most venomous snake in Europe. That said, it’s also very shy, and you’re unlikely to see one.

We spotted about five snakes — based on our research, all of them were non-venomous.

It helps to hike with trekking poles, as snakes sense the vibrations in the ground and move away quickly. Bites really only happen if you step directly on one.

Bears

Brown bears live in the hiking area. Encounters between people and bears in this part of the world are very rare, and there are no known accidents involving bears and hikers. So you don’t need to worry too much.

That said, knowing bears are around is useful — it makes sense to hike in small groups, keep up conversation, or carry a bear bell.

Wolves

Wolves are mostly nocturnal and therefore don’t pose a major threat to hikers. We neither saw nor heard any wolves.

Shepherd dogs

Shepherd dogs were what we were warned about most before the hike. They protect sheep flocks, and if you get too close, they can become aggressive.

We rarely encountered a sheep flock, and when we did, there was always a shepherd present — so we had no unpleasant encounters.

How difficult or dangerous is the Peaks of the Balkans Trail?

Overall, we found the paths to be quite safe. There are only a few sections where you’re hiking right along a cliff edge or where the terrain is steep enough to make slipping a real risk.

The ground is generally stable and easy to walk on. Rain changes things — when it’s wet, the trails can get very slippery. Hiking boots with good soles are a must!

You should always stay alert. On some sections you’ll be climbing over rocks, walking through leaves, and scrambling over scree. Slipping or twisting an ankle is always possible. Definitely bring a first aid kit.

Storms on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail

Bad weather is always a risk when hiking — especially at high elevations. Mountain weather can change fast, and suddenly dark clouds replace the sunshine.

If there’s a thunderstorm, stop hiking and find shelter. Don’t take cover under trees or stay out in the open at high altitude.

When Is the Best Time to Visit the Peaks of the Balkans?

The best time to hike the Peaks of the Balkans is from June through September. Outside this window, there’s too much snow on the trail and hiking isn’t recommended.

In winter there’s avalanche risk, and in many places the guesthouses are closed.

June marks the start of hiking season — we set off in mid-June and thought it was the perfect month! The trail isn’t too crowded yet and you can still book accommodations spontaneously.

On top of that, the water sources are still fairly full in June, and if you’re lucky, it won’t be too hot yet.

July and August are peak season. The trail is noticeably busier, and we recommend booking accommodations in advance. Water sources are fewer along the trail — especially in August — so make sure to carry enough.

Also keep in mind that it can get very hot, though some sections run through high mountain terrain where it can get cold even in the middle of summer.

September gets quieter again and is similarly great for hiking as June. There may be early snowfall, but that’s very unlikely.

Our Experience Report on the Peaks of the Balkans

We built the Peaks of the Balkans fairly spontaneously into our three-week Albania/Montenegro trip and hiked the official route from Theth to Plav (skipping the two stages between Plav and Theth).

Read our tips for a road trip through Albania

Because of that, we brought all our luggage for the entire trip with us — which, surprisingly, wasn’t much of a problem at all.

In total, we were on the trail for eight days and paid around 35 euros per person per night, meals included. Our only additional expenses were for soft drinks.

We got really lucky with the weather — it only rained one afternoon. Otherwise we mostly had blue skies, which clouded over a little on some days.

Day 1: Theth – Valbona

On the first day we set off from our accommodation Bujtina Kometa in Theth at around 8 AM. From there we had about 1 kilometer to walk to the start of the hike.

Read our article with all our tips for Theth

From there, it was a steep climb of about 5 kilometers. The trail was well marked and there were small cafés and springs to refill water along the way.

Luckily, most of the climb went through forest, because the sun was beating down hard.

Since this stage is also a popular day hike in Albania, there were plenty of other hikers on the trail.

Around 11 AM we reached the top of the pass — we had covered 1,000 meters of elevation gain to get there. After scrambling up to the small peak just above the pass, it was time for our lunch break.

Our tip: If you still have energy, hike past the small peak to the higher summit — very few hikers make it up there.

After the pass, you first head downhill over a lot of scree — watch your step here so you don’t twist an ankle. The descent is otherwise very manageable.

Once you’ve made it through the first descent, a few hundred meters later you’ll find a café with a restroom and a water source. We took a longer break here.

After that, we continued straight to Valbona — first steeply downhill through forest and then the last stretch through the Valbona Valley.

Around 4 PM we arrived at our accommodation Bujtina Arturi. Afterward, we treated ourselves to a bag of chips from the mini market in Valbona and dangled our feet in the cold water of the Valbona River.

As at every stop on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail, dinner was served at 7 PM.

Day 2: Valbona – Çerem

This stage is one of our absolute favorites on the Peaks of the Balkans. There are two options — the lower route, which covers 11 kilometers through the valley, and the higher one, where you hike over a pass.

Unless you’re injured or very tired, definitely take the high route — it’s stunning! We set off right after breakfast at a quarter to eight.

After crossing the bridge in Valbona, we immediately had a very steep climb over rocks. It was seriously tough!

Once the hard part was over, you hike uphill through forest for a stretch and then continue into the mountains in full sun.

Note: There are no water sources on the entire ascent — the next one is about 2 kilometers past the highest point. Ration your water carefully here. We even met people who topped off their bottles with snow.

After gaining more than 1,100 meters of elevation over four hours, we reached the top of the pass. The views from here are absolutely incredible, and the spot among the rocks is perfect for a meal break. It’s one of our personal top highlights in Albania.

Since the pass is so high up (there was even a little snow here in mid-June), we got cold pretty quickly and got ready to descend.

The first part of the descent is tricky, as you’re scrambling over a lot of rock. You need to stay focused here. Once you’ve made it through that section, finally comes the most important thing: water!

After refilling and filtering our reserves, we headed down the mountains with renewed energy toward Çerem — the least interesting spot on the trail for us.

Around 4 PM we were at our accommodation, VITA Guesthouse. We showered and that evening enjoyed a very tasty dinner with dessert (yay!).

Day 3: Çerem – Dobërdoll

The hike from Çerem to Dobërdoll was quite relaxed compared to the previous days. Since it mostly goes through forest without too steep a climb, the first 800 meters of elevation gain were very manageable.

At the top there’s a café where you can buy soft drinks and cake and enjoy both with great views.

We didn’t find the scenery on this stage quite as impressive, but the day was a really enjoyable hike — almost meditative. Had we not seen a sign reading “Beware of Bears,” it would have been even more laid-back.

From there it was almost entirely through forest and meadows, heading downhill. A few kilometers before Dobërdoll there was one more climb, and then we could already spot the village.

Dobërdoll is truly beautiful! We arrived as early as 2 PM, but with views like that, a relaxed afternoon was exactly the right call.

Our tip: At the Bilbil Vatnikaj Guest House there’s a lovely waterfall where you can cool off.

Day 4: Dobërdoll – Milishevc

Day 4 was another one of our favorites on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail. We set off from Dobërdoll around 8 AM and, after getting slightly lost at first, headed steeply uphill toward the first pass.

After barely 2 kilometers of steep climbing, the views over the various valleys were already breathtaking.

Even better, though, are the views from the Tromeda Peak — to get there, turn right off the trail at the shelter and you’ll reach the summit in less than 20 minutes. You can leave your pack at the shelter since you’ll be coming back the same way.

After that, the trail stays varied. You hike up and down until you reach the Rhoskodol Pass. We had our lunch break here.

From there you hike mostly across meadows and through forests down to Roshkodol. We found this section a bit tedious, and the pine branches scratched up our skin more than once.

Finally reaching Roshkodol, we took a well-earned second break before continuing uphill in blazing sun along a gravel road to Milishevc.

At the Kulla Guesthouse we immediately treated ourselves to a cold drink and later enjoyed an outstanding dinner.

Day 5: Milishevc – Reka e Allagёs

Our fifth day started as always with breakfast. We set off at 8 AM and after a few hundred meters the first climb of the day began — up the pass through tall grass.

Once at the top, the hardest part of the day was already done — or so we thought! Since it was still early, we made a side trip to Guri i Koq mountain, adding 500 meters of elevation.

Keep in mind that there’s no marked trail to the summit and the climb is very, very steep. We’d only recommend this detour to experienced hikers.

Back on the Peaks of the Balkans route, the first stretch is a pleasant, flat walk past a lake.

Then comes a pretty long, steep descent that really drags on. We also spotted a snake here.

For the first time, we understood why so many hikers skip the Kosovo section. The scenery isn’t as stunning and the descent is really tedious.

When we finally reached the bottom, we came out onto a main road. There you can have fresh fish for lunch at Hotel Rugova Camp.

Refreshed from our lunch break, the rest of the stage followed roads. After walking along the main road for a stretch, the final section headed up a paved road. We made a detour to the Shtegu i Ujëvarës waterfall — well worth it, since unlike the road, it offered shade.

The last stretch of uphill road really dragged. When we reached Ariu Guesthouse around 3 PM, we were very happy to put our feet up.

Day 6: Reka e Allagёs – Liqenat

Day 6 was our longest stage at 23 kilometers and also the one we enjoyed the least. It started through a very dense forest, then across meadows, and after that it was almost entirely on roads.

For the first few kilometers it was still pleasant to walk on road, as we passed through small villages and the route remained varied.

Then came around 7 kilometers of pure country road — apart from a few dead (and two live) snakes and some passing cars, there wasn’t much to see, and the sun was beating down hard. The otherwise moderate climb felt really exhausting!

After finally finishing the first 17 kilometers of the stage, there was a very steep descent through the forest — we briefly got lost here too, but found our way back onto the trail.

When we came back out onto the main road that we had taken up to Reka e Allagës the day before, we were pretty fed up and just wanted to reach Liqenat.

But the last 3 kilometers also led up a country road to Liqenat. There was nothing for it — just put your head down and push through.

Liqenat itself was a pleasant surprise, which lifted our spirits considerably. Instead of staying in the guesthouse at Villa Route Rouge as booked, we got our own villa, and it was really cozy.

For dinner we went to the Guri i Kuq restaurant and were thrilled to have something different from the guesthouse fare (which had always been very tasty, but had started to feel a little repetitive).

Tonight: delicious pasta!

Day 7: Liqenat – Babino Polje

Breakfast was served at the same restaurant as the night before — really good! And there was also proper coffee. Yay!

Our second-to-last stage quickly became one of our favorites on the Peaks of the Balkans hiking trail. From Liqenat we had to hike uphill for the first few kilometers through forest and rocky terrain.

After the first climb came the first highlight of the day: the lake Kucisko Jezero. It glowed a beautiful shade of green. From there it was another kilometer to the second, equally lovely lake.

The next stretch was another pure uphill section, with stunning mountain views all the way to the pass on the border with Montenegro.

From there, mostly easy descents awaited us, winding through forests and across hillside meadows. The weather was closing in more and more and we got a little worried it was about to rain.

Our lunch break today was therefore pretty quick, and 4 kilometers before Babino Polje the first rain came down. With our rain covers on our packs, we were able to keep going since the rain wasn’t too heavy.

The puddles on the ground made the descent through the meadow a bit slippery, but still very manageable. After about half an hour it stopped raining again.

We were still glad to have arrived in Babino Polje by 2 PM, because a proper thunderstorm rolled in during the afternoon.

Unfortunately our room at Eko Katu Hakun wasn’t very nice — but it kept us well out of the rain and we had a warm shower.

For our first evening in Montenegro, we had goulash, rice, and salad for dinner, and even a slice of cake. We went to bed happy and content.

Day 8: Babino Polje – Plav

Since thunderstorms and rain were in the forecast for our last hiking day, we decided on the spot to shorten it and not follow the official route (21 kilometers).

From Babino Polje, the official route normally takes you uphill to a lake and then down to Plav. Since this stage is said to be nothing special apart from the lake, we took the direct route along a gravel road to Plav.

We arrived around 11 AM and, since there was still no sign of bad weather, took a short stroll around Plav.

Our Final Verdict on the Peaks of the Balkans

Our overall verdict is very positive! We had a fantastic time on the Peaks of the Balkans, and the landscapes are truly beautiful. We were also really happy with the guesthouses and the food.

We can wholeheartedly recommend this trail to any hiking enthusiast — and if you don’t have much experience with long-distance treks yet, this is a great place to start.

What we genuinely found disappointing was that the Kosovo section consists largely of roads. Understandably, very few hikers now do that stretch. That’s also a little sad, because we found the locals in Kosovo to be incredibly welcoming.

We also weren’t thrilled about the snakes we kept spotting from time to time — but if you’re not too squeamish about them, it’s really not a big deal. Most of the snakes there are non-venomous.