Ningaloo Reef: Whale Sharks and Dream Beaches in Cape Range National Park

Swimming with Whale Sharks

Whale sharks are the largest fish on our planet.

Let us throw out a few numbers to illustrate just how impressive these animals are: whale sharks can grow up to 43 feet long, weigh up to 13 tons, and their mouths alone can be up to 5 feet wide.

If a whale shark wanted to, it could swallow us whole. Thankfully, they have no interest in doing that — whale sharks feed exclusively on plankton and small fish.

Every year between March and July, whale sharks appear off the coast of Cape Range National Park. It’s one of the few places in the world where you can snorkel with whale sharks.

We weren’t going to miss this for anything, and we’d love to share our experience swimming with whale sharks at the Ningaloo Reef with you.

Operators and Prices for Swimming with Whale Sharks

In Exmouth and Coral Bay there are numerous operators offering whale shark tours.

We went with the Exmouth Diving Centre and can’t recommend them highly enough. The crew was super friendly and incredibly professional. We felt really well looked after, and you could tell every single guide genuinely loves nature and the whale sharks.

It never felt like just another commercial operation — it was about giving everyone an incredible experience.

We asked the guides at the Exmouth Diving Centre what sets the different whale shark tour operators apart. Their honest answer: basically nothing, apart from a few small details.

All operators must meet the same strict regulations. At any given time, no more than 10 people are allowed in the water, and a safety distance of at least 10 feet from the whale sharks must be maintained. Compliance is strictly monitored, so all operators follow the rules.

One thing that does set the Exmouth Diving Centre apart: they include professional photos and video footage of the tour. A diver with a proper underwater camera (not a GoPro — an actual camera) is with you the whole time, and you get the photos and videos afterward at no extra charge.

The tour costs approximately 500 AUD per person (about 300 euros). That includes hotel pickup and drop-off, lunch on board, snorkel gear including a wetsuit, coffee and tea on the boat, and of course the photos and video.

If no whale sharks are spotted, you can redo the tour free of charge.

Our tip: Schedule your whale shark swim for your first day in Cape Range National Park. If no whale sharks show up, you’ll have more chances to get back out on the water.

Book the whale shark tour here

Our Experience Snorkeling with Whale Sharks at the Ningaloo Reef

As is so often the case in Western Australia, the day starts early. We’re picked up from the hotel at 7:00 AM, and by 8:00 AM we’re all seated on a boat.

We receive our wetsuits, snorkels, and masks. After a briefing on how to behave while snorkeling and around the whale sharks, we head straight into the water.

Split into two groups of ten, the first round is all about getting comfortable in the water and testing the gear. It would be a real shame if your mask didn’t fit properly and you ended up missing the whale shark because of it.

Back on the boat, we’re told that the spotter planes are now in the air and we should be ready at any moment.

The planes scan from above to locate the whale sharks and then radio the coordinates to the boats. Sometimes it only takes ten minutes until the first sighting; other times it can take three hours.

We got lucky. After just under 15 minutes, we heard it for the first time: “Whale Sharks!”

We scrambled into our gear and jumped in the water. What happened next is hard to put into words. The enormous whale shark swam toward us at a leisurely pace. We moved to the side, let it glide past, and swam alongside it for a while.

An absolutely incredible experience!

After a few minutes in the water, it was back to the boat. Over the next two to three hours, it kept happening one after another: “Whale Shark!”, “Get ready!”, “Go, Go, Go, Go, Go!” By the end, we’d completely lost count of how many times we’d been in the water — but it was definitely seven or eight times. Just amazing.

Everyone was happy, there was lunch, and anyone who wanted to could do one final 20-minute snorkel in the Ningaloo Reef. We wrapped up the day with a toast — beer, sparkling wine, or soda — celebrating a truly wonderful day.

If you make it to the Ningaloo Reef, do not skip this experience. You don’t get to swim with whale sharks every day. This is one of those things you’ll still be talking about years from now.

Our tip: Please be respectful. Keep your distance from the whale shark and always remember that you’re a guest in its world — not the other way around. The operator takes photos and videos that you can use afterward — if you’d like, the photographer will even snap a shot of you with the whale shark. So make a conscious effort not to experience this beautiful moment solely through your own underwater camera. Just enjoy it, free of screens and gadgets.

Swimming with Humpback Whales

A great alternative to swimming with whale sharks at the Ningaloo Reef is swimming with humpback whales. This is possible during the season between July and October. We haven’t tried it ourselves, but we imagine it’s every bit as unique an experience.

Book swimming with humpback whales

Cape Range National Park

Cape Range National Park stretches southwest of Exmouth along the coast.

As the crow flies, the park is only about two kilometers from Exmouth, yet the drive still takes about 30 minutes. There’s no direct access road — you always have to take a detour along the northern coast. But that’s no problem at all, because the route is absolutely beautiful.

Snorkeling in the Ningaloo Reef

Cape Range National Park consists mostly of bushland and is home to some of the finest snorkeling spots in Western Australia: Turquoise Bay and Oyster Stacks.

At both spots, you can go snorkeling in the Ningaloo Reef directly from the beach. We snorkeled at Turquoise Bay and could have stayed there for hours.

Info: Here’s what you should know about snorkeling at Turquoise Bay: when you turn into the parking lot for the bay, you’ll see a sign that reads “Drift Bay” (or something similar). Just follow that sign and park there. You’ll come out right at the section of the bay where you can begin your snorkel.

The current carries you along the coast all on its own, right to the end of the beach, which tapers into a small sandbar. Once you’re there, you’ll immediately understand what we mean! That’s where you get out of the water and walk back about 100 yards along the beach to the starting point.

We spotted a large stingray, enormous schools of fish, and much more. With a bit of luck, you might even see (harmless) reef sharks.

Unfortunately, we weren’t able to snorkel at Oyster Stacks. It’s only possible when the water is at least 1.2 meters deep — otherwise it’s too shallow. Each month there are four days when the water is too low for the entire day, and we happened to arrive on exactly those days. You can check the water level for specific times here:

Water level Cape Range National Park

Our tip: You can rent snorkeling equipment in Exmouth at several shops (e.g., at the Exmouth Diving Centre for 15 AUD). Alternatively, you can simply buy a set with a mask, snorkel, and fins.

Kangaroos in Cape Range National Park

Cape Range National Park is also a great place to spot kangaroos. On various hiking trails you have a solid chance of seeing them, and even from your car you’ll have excellent odds early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Exmouth and Surroundings

The small town of Exmouth doesn’t have a huge amount going on in itself. You’ll find accommodation, shops, restaurants, and gas stations — everything you need for day-to-day travel.

Exmouth works perfectly as a base for day trips into Cape Range National Park.

To the north of town, though, there are also a few points of interest that fall outside the national park.

A detour to the lighthouse north of Exmouth is definitely worth your time. The small hill with the lighthouse is one of the most popular spots to watch the sunset. There are also some interesting informational panels about the history of the area, plus a café.

Also worth a look are the enormous radio towers visible from the lighthouse. There are 13 of them in total, and some are taller than the Eiffel Tower or the Empire State Building. The towers were erected in 1963 and are used by the Americans to communicate with their submarines in the Southern Hemisphere.

Our tip: When you park at the lighthouse, take a look to the left on your way to the information panels. What looks like rocks there are actually sandbags left over from World War II.

Coral Bay

About a two-hour drive south of Exmouth lies the small town of Coral Bay, one of the most popular spots for a beach vacation on Australia’s west coast.

There isn’t a whole lot to do here besides lounging on the beach, snorkeling, and watching sunsets. But really — what more could you want?

It’s absolutely worth stopping in Coral Bay for a few days on a road trip through Western Australia and just taking it easy.

Restaurant Tips in Exmouth

We spent four days in Exmouth in total and had plenty of opportunity to try out the local restaurants and cafés. Here are our favorites:

• Froth Craft Brewery: If we lived in Exmouth, this would hands down be our go-to spot. Everything just works here: a cozy atmosphere, several excellent house-brewed beers, and really great food — the burgers in particular are fantastic. There’s plenty for vegetarians too. Seriously, don’t miss it.
• The Social Society: A café with an attached store selling clothing and jewelry, run by a German couple — and it’s honestly outstanding. We had some of the best coffee in Australia here, super delicious smoothies, and amazing brownies and cookies. Lots of things are even vegan and gluten-free. Same verdict: absolutely worth a visit.
• See Salt Restaurant: Right next to The Social Society is See Salt Restaurant. The menu covers a lot of ground: burgers (though only so-so), Hawaiian poke with salmon, Vietnamese pho, Indian curry, and German schnitzel — yes, you read that right.
• The Whalers Restaurant: The Whalers is the top address in Exmouth for fish and seafood. Highly recommended is the Seafood Medley for two, with oysters, fish, and prawns — all in generous portions.

Our tip: All the restaurants tend to fill up in the evenings. Your best bet is to call ahead and reserve a table.

Where to Stay at the Ningaloo Reef

Along the Ningaloo Reef there are two small towns that make great bases for exploring: Coral Bay and Exmouth. If you’re driving the coast from south to north, you can spend a few days in Coral Bay first and then move on to Exmouth for a few more.

Alternatively, you can also stay overnight in Coral Bay. There are several hotels there as well.