In a nutshell
Currently, travel to Myanmar is not recommended. The German Federal Foreign Office has issued a travel warning, as the security situation in the country is still considered critical. It is currently unclear when the situation will improve.
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What is Mrauk U?
Mrauk U is a sunken royal city that could have come straight out of an Indiana Jones film: crumbling temples and pagodas set amid a green landscape, very simple villages, and women carrying large jugs of water on their heads from the well.
Mrauk U was actually once a world metropolis. In the 16th century, 120,000 people lived here — roughly the same number as London had at the time, and ten times as many as Berlin in the 16th century. By the 19th century, the town had declined in importance and is today little more than a larger village.
Our first tip for visiting Mrauk U: pronunciation. All over Myanmar, people will shrug their shoulders if you say it the way it’s written. The correct pronunciation is: Mjau U.
Highlights and Sights in Mrauk U
We don’t know exactly how many pagodas there are in Mrauk U. A local told us there are more than in Bagan — though we’re not entirely convinced. Still, Mrauk U is often called “Bagan without the tourist crowds.”
We don’t find that description quite fitting, though. Bagan is considerably larger, and above all, the pagodas and temples in Bagan are significantly more impressive.
What Mrauk U has going for it is its unique atmosphere. Unlike in Bagan, people here still live among the temples and pagodas. Everything is green, and it’s not unusual to suddenly be met by a herd of goats inside a temple.
Even though the individual pagodas can’t match the splendor of Bagan, here are our top picks in a little more detail.
Shittaung Temple
The Shittaung Temple is the most important and probably the largest temple in Mrauk U. From the outside, it’s unfortunately not that attractive anymore — it was very poorly restored a few years ago.
Inside, however, there are quite a lot of Buddha statues to see. The Shittaung Temple is also where the entrance fee for all of Mrauk U is collected. The ticket costs 5,000 Kyat and is valid for an entire week.
Kothaung Temple
The Kothaung Temple in the east of Mrauk U was our personal favorite. It’s one of the larger complexes in the area and seriously impresses with its countless Buddha images, many of which are half in ruins.
Pizi Pagoda
Just a few hundred meters south of the Kothaung Temple lies the Pizi Pagoda. It’s tucked away on a small hill, and we only found it by chance.
At the top, two Buddha statues sit enthroned, gazing out over an endlessly wide landscape. You can also get great photos here with the Kothaung Temple in the background.
Sunrise from the Shwetaung Pagoda
The Shwetaung Pagoda at the southeastern end of Mrauk U offers a really beautiful view over the entire town. From up there, you get a stunning panorama — both at sunrise and sunset.
We went up for sunrise and didn’t regret the early wake-up call one bit. The path to the top was completely overgrown right after the rainy season and a bit tricky to find.
We’d recommend stopping by during daylight first, since it’s not easy to find the right path in the dark.
Directions to the Shwetaung Pagoda from the Prince Hotel
Follow the road in front of the hotel to the left, and before the bridge turn left onto the street. Then turn left onto the second dirt road (after about 100 meters).
Follow this road heading straight toward the entrance of a monastery (you can already see it from the road).
Just before the monastery entrance, turn left and continue along the dirt road until, after a few meters, a small path leads uphill to the right (where the trees end).
Just follow the path and keep heading uphill — all roads lead to the Shwetaung Pagoda.
The best way to explore Mrauk U
Mrauk U isn’t very large. The area where most of the temples and pagodas are located is not much bigger than 2×2 kilometers.
When the paths are dry, a bicycle works great for getting around. Unfortunately for us, it rained from morning to night for the first two days. The paths afterward were pure mud tracks, and we got our bike stuck more than once.
We ended up exploring Mrauk U on foot, which worked out wonderfully too.
Even though we’ve highlighted only four must-sees in detail here, that doesn’t mean there’s nothing else to discover. Plenty of small pagodas are waiting to be found.
We’d recommend setting aside two full days to explore Mrauk U.
Impressions and Photos from Mrauk U
Day Trip from Mrauk U to the Tattooed Women in the Chin Villages
We also took a day trip to some of the surrounding Chin villages, where the last women with traditional facial tattoos live.
Honestly, that wasn’t such a great experience. You can find a detailed account of our time there here: The Tattooed Women of the Chin: A Trip Beyond Morality.
Getting to Mrauk U
Getting to Mrauk U by Plane
Mrauk U is separated from the rest of the country by a massive mountain range. Traveling overland is technically possible these days, but very arduous. Most travelers therefore arrive by plane.
Flying is definitely the fastest way to get to Mrauk U — though even that isn’t entirely straightforward.
Flight from Yangon to Sittwe
The fastest route goes via Sittwe. The provincial capital of Rakhine State is served daily by several flights from Yangon.
The flight takes about an hour and is operated daily by most domestic airlines. With Air Mandalay, which we flew with, and Air KBZ, you can now even buy tickets online; otherwise, tickets are available at any travel agency and at most hotels in Yangon.
The small planes take about an hour to reach Sittwe, and the flight costs around $100 — sometimes a bit more, sometimes a bit less.
Some flights make a brief stopover in Thandwe at Ngapali Beach, so it’s also possible to fly directly from Ngapali Beach to Mrauk U, or the other way around.
Tip: The airport in Thandwe is located almost right on the beach. If you have a layover there and a bit of time, don’t forget to pack your swimsuit.
From Sittwe to Mrauk U
From Sittwe to Mrauk U takes another four to six hours, and you have the choice between a boat ride and traveling by car.
By boat from Sittwe to Mrauk U
The boat ride from Sittwe to Mrauk U is definitely the more scenic option. That said, you won’t miss too much if you make the trip by car instead.
The cheapest way to go by boat is the ferry, which departs every morning at 8:00 AM. This costs $10 per person, but you’ll need to spend a night in Sittwe first.
If you want to go faster, you can charter a private boat. Boat operators wait for tourists right at the airport in Sittwe. The trip should cost around $100 (approximately 130,000 Kyat), and you can share the boat with other travelers.
It’s worth keeping an eye out for other tourists on the plane and teaming up as a small group.
The trip takes about six hours depending on weather conditions. If you plan to continue to Mrauk U by boat on the same day, choose the earliest possible flight — boats aren’t allowed to travel after dark, and after 1:00 PM it starts getting tight.
By car from Sittwe to Mrauk U
Since it was pouring rain when we arrived, we decided against the boat and drove to Mrauk U by car.
Drivers also wait for customers at the airport in Sittwe, and we shared a vehicle with another couple. The ride cost us $100, which seems like a pretty fair price.
It’s also possible to take a bus to Mrauk U. Since buses also depart relatively early, an overnight stay in Sittwe is necessary for that option as well.
Getting to Mrauk U by Bus or Car, and Onward Travel
Traveling overland is cheaper than flying, but you’ll need plenty of time and patience — the journey will take a very, very long time.
Still, this option is worth considering, especially for onward travel after your stay in Mrauk U. We wanted to travel directly from Mrauk U to Bagan without flying back to Yangon first — which left us with no choice but to go overland.
Bus between Mrauk U and Yangon
You can travel this route by bus these days. We met a traveler in Mrauk U who had done just that. The journey takes almost 24 hours, and the buses are nothing like the comfortable tourist coaches now available elsewhere in the country. The price is around 25,000 Kyat.
Bus between Mrauk U and Mandalay
Several bus companies now operate the route between Mrauk U and Mandalay. The journey takes about 20 hours and isn’t particularly comfortable. Buses depart from Mrauk U in the morning, and you arrive in Mandalay very early the next day. The fare is also around 25,000 Kyat.
Bus or Car between Mrauk U and Bagan
There’s also a bus connection between Mrauk U and Bagan, which costs around 30,000 Kyat and takes approximately 22 hours. The first leg is by bus in the direction of Mandalay. Around 2:00 AM, you arrive in Magwe, where you need to transfer.
The bus to Bagan doesn’t depart until around 5:00 AM, so you’ll have a few hours to kill in the middle of the night.
We met someone who had done this route. It’s definitely doable, but it won’t rank among the highlights of your trip.
We weren’t in the mood for that bus ride and splurged on a private driver instead. The car ride takes about 14 hours and cost us $400 — a pretty hefty sum, but you only live once.
The owner of the Prince Hotel arranged the ride for us, and we didn’t find a better price anywhere else. The car was brand new, and there were even two drivers who took turns — they had come from Bagan the day before and drove back with us the next day.
If you’re thinking “14 hours? I can handle that — I’ve got some good books with me,” think again.
The road consists almost entirely of one pothole after another, so you’ll spend the whole time trying not to hit your head on the ceiling or fall off your seat. We’d seriously recommend bringing a good audiobook and headphones.
Is it worth spending a night in Sittwe?
If you want to catch the affordable 8:00 AM boat from Sittwe to Mrauk U, an overnight stay in Sittwe is unavoidable. And that’s really not so bad — Sittwe is actually quite pleasant, and you can easily fill half a day there.
There’s a large market where a lot of fish is sold, as well as an old clock tower and some charming streets. Sittwe isn’t spectacular, but it’s certainly interesting.
Hotels in Sittwe are in short supply, though. By far the best value is the Hotel Memory — it’s often fully booked, so reserve a few days in advance. The best option for budget travelers is the Kiss Guesthouse.
Where to Stay in Mrauk U
Mass tourism hasn’t reached Mrauk U yet. The value for money at hotels here is therefore still somewhat lower than in the rest of Myanmar — even so, there’s now a decent selection of places to stay.
The Prince Hotel
Our tip: We stayed at the Prince Hotel and can wholeheartedly recommend it. The grounds are really lush and green, and there are four room categories — from dormitories to superior bungalows with three beds.
The rooms aren’t the newest, and the bathrooms are more functional than fancy. Even so, we absolutely loved it there — largely thanks to the incredibly friendly owner couple.
Both speak good English, arrange tickets and excursions, and give great advice for exploring Mrauk U. The hotel lobby doubles as the family’s living room, so you feel right at home. And best of all: the owner is the greatest cook in all of Mrauk U.
We ate out once at the much-praised Moe Cherry Restaurant in town, but otherwise had every meal at the hotel. She cooked up different amazing dishes every evening. Food-wise, the Prince Hotel was honestly one of our favorite experiences in all of Myanmar.
If you’d like to know which hotels we stayed at on our trip through Myanmar and what we thought of them, check out our full accommodation guide:
Myanmar Hotel Tips: All Our Accommodations from the Trip
The best hotel in Mrauk U
The Prince Hotel is the best choice on a smaller budget. If money is no object, then the princess is even better than the prince.
The Mrauk U Princess Resort is by far the finest — but also the most expensive — place to stay in the area. And on our next trip to Mrauk U, we’d love to give it a try.
Check out the Mrauk U Princess Resort
Our Video from Mrauk U
In our five-minute travel video from Mrauk U, we share our experiences in Mrauk U.
Our Verdict on Mrauk U
Mrauk U is absolutely worth a visit! Plan for at least two full days to see the temples and pagodas. Including travel to and from Mrauk U, you’ll need at least four to five days in total.
For a two-week trip through Myanmar, that’s a significant chunk of time — especially given how much else there is to see. But if you have three weeks or more, or if you’re visiting Myanmar for the second time, you really should not skip Mrauk U.
Have you been to Mrauk U? What did you think? We’d love to read your comment.
