In a nutshell
- The Fanal Fairy Forest is one of the top attractions on Madeira — famous for its ancient, strangely shaped laurel trees that are often swallowed up by fog and feel genuinely otherworldly.
- In this guide, we cover everything you need: how to get there, the best hiking trails (including the easy loop and the longer PR13 and PR14 routes), and the ideal time to visit.
- Our top tip: go in the morning for the best fog — but honestly, the fanal forest is worth visiting in any weather. The trees are spectacular either way.
What Is the Fanal Fairy Forest on Madeira?
Fanal is an area on the Paul da Serra plateau in the northwest of Madeira. The landscape is made up of green meadows and a forest of laurel trees — some of them centuries old!
That’s why Fanal is also known as the Laurel Forest. But it goes by two other names as well: Fairy Forest and Cloud Forest.
Cloud Forest comes from the fact that Fanal is frequently wrapped in thick fog, and Fairy Forest — well, that one’s pretty obvious once you see it. The landscape looks seriously mystical and enchanting.
There’s so much to do here: short and long hikes, picnicking under the trees, incredible photos, and more. We’ll walk you through all of it.
How to Get to the Fanal Fairy Forest
The best way to reach Fanal is by rental car, taxi, or a transfer. Public buses don’t run there.
If you’re doing a road trip around Madeira by car, you can park at the public restrooms (Google Maps: Casa de Banho pública) near the Laurel Forest, or pull over somewhere along the roadside.
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Alternatively, we recommend booking a transfer in advance — it’s usually much cheaper than hailing a taxi on the spot. Most transfers depart from Funchal. If you don’t have a car, Funchal is the best place to stay on Madeira.
Another great option is a guided tour. These include a transfer and a guide, and many also cover other highlights in the west, like the natural pools in Porto Moniz.
View the guided tour to Fanal and western Madeira
Hikes in Fanal
Fanal is a popular hiking area on Madeira with tons of trails leading to or through the Laurel Forest. Here are three great hiking trails in Fanal worth knowing about.
Also read our packing list for a hiking vacation
To give you a better overview of where the fanal forest sits on Madeira, we’ve marked the most popular trails on a map.
#1 Loop Trail Through the Fanal Fairy Forest
- Length: 3.7 km
- Difficulty: Easy
- Elevation gain: 100 m
If you don’t want to hike much, the classic loop through the Laurel Forest is your best bet. It’s short and takes you past the most beautiful spots in Fanal — perfect for photos!
The loop starts at the Posto Florestal do Fanal, heading uphill to the Miradouro sobre a Ribeira Funda. The views from the top are fantastic.
Then you head downhill along the hillside — steep but totally manageable with good footing. After that, you walk across a large green meadow past countless laurel trees.
Keep going straight and you’ll reach a small lake where you can hear frogs croaking. From there it’s on to the Lagoa, a larger lake — though it was completely dried up when we visited.
From the Lagoa, you walk back through the Laurel Forest toward the parking area. Before heading home, grab a spot under one of the mighty trees for a picnic. Totally worth it.
#2 Vereda do Fanal (PR13)
- Length: 10.8 kilometers
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Elevation gain: Approximately 300 m
The Vereda do Fanal is the one to choose if you want a longer hike to the Fairy Forest.
The starting point is further down at the parking lot on road ER209. From here you hike approximately 10 kilometers through a variety of landscapes all the way to Fanal, finishing at the Posto Florestal do Fanal.
You can also tack on the loop trail through the Laurel Forest at the end.
Since the start and end points of the PR13 are at two completely different locations, you have three options:
- Option 1: Park at the trailhead and take a taxi back from Fanal
- Option 2: Park at the trailhead and walk or hitchhike back
- Option 3: Book a guided hiking tour
View the guided Vereda do Fanal PR13 hike
#3 Levada dos Cedros (PR14)
- Length: 7.2 kilometers
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Elevation gain: Approximately 300 m
You can also combine your visit to the fanal forest with a levada hike on Madeira. The PR14 trail follows a levada all the way to the Cloud Forest.
The starting point is also on road ER209 — in the direction of Ribeira da Janela. You can park your car right there.
The trail ends at the Fairy Forest. If you still have energy, tack on the loop trail and take one of the many paths from the Lagoa back to the start of the PR14.
Important tip: Download the Komoot or MapsMe app before you go so you can easily find all the hiking trails on Madeira.
When Is the Best Time to Visit the Cloud Forest?
Generally speaking, the best time to head to Fanal is in the morning — that’s when you have the highest chance of finding the forest wrapped in fog. But there’s never any guarantee.
Madeira’s weather is famously changeable and shifts fast, so we wouldn’t stress too much about timing.
We arrived at around 10 in the morning and it was brilliantly sunny. We still thought the day trip was absolutely amazing — the trees look seriously cool even without fog, and you get great views in clear weather too.
Also read our tips on the best time to visit Madeira
Frequently Asked Questions About the Fanal Laurel Forest
Where is the fairy forest on Madeira, and how high up is Fanal?
The fairy forest is located inland in the northwest of Madeira, approximately 1,200 meters above sea level.
When is there fog in Fanal?
Honestly, it varies quite a bit. Your best chances are in the morning — but Madeira’s weather is unpredictable, so there’s no guarantee.
Are there cows in Fanal?
Yes, you’ll very likely spot some cows in Fanal. They’re generally peaceful — just don’t bother or feed them and you’ll be fine.
