Visiting East Timor: My Itinerary & Honest Travel Tips

What Can You Expect from a Vacation in East Timor?

Before my trip to East Timor (Timor-Leste), I knew almost nothing about the country. There’s barely any coverage of it online — and I quickly understood why: there is virtually no tourism in East Timor.

I only saw a fair number of foreigners in Dili. Most of them were Australians working for a charitable organization. Outside of Dili, I met a grand total of four tourists in one week.

Tourist infrastructure is therefore almost nonexistent across the country. In most places you’ll find only very basic guesthouses, the roads are rough, and restaurants are a genuine rarity.

I’ll walk you through all of this step by step.

Sights in Timor-Leste

There are only a handful of classic attractions in East Timor. The country is known above all for diving and its underwater world.

Here are our four top highlights in East Timor:

#1 Christ Statue of Dili

The statue stands in the east of Dili and is absolutely not to be missed when visiting East Timor. From the top you get a great view of the city and the sea.

#2 Mount Ramelau

Ramelau is East Timor’s highest mountain and its summit is a popular hiking destination. The nearest town is Hatu-Builico, where you’ll also find several guesthouses.

#3 Atauro

The island of Atauro, just off the coast of Dili, is especially popular with divers and beach lovers — unfortunately I didn’t make it there on my road trip. For divers, the Atauro Dive Resort is a great place to stay.

#4 Jaco Island

Jaco sits at the far eastern tip of Timor-Leste and is a true beach paradise. The island is a dream for snorkeling and the beaches are seriously stunning. I would have loved to go, but by the end of my trip I just didn’t have the energy.

Getting to East Timor

There are very few flight connections to East Timor. Only about three planes land at Dili’s international airport per day.

Currently, East Timor is only served by flights from Bali, Darwin (Australia), and Singapore. I traveled from Bali to East Timor and from there onward to Australia.

Domestic flights are only available to Oecusse — a part of East Timor that is landlocked within Indonesian territory.

Search flights to East Timor on Skyscanner

From Dili Airport to the City

If you haven’t arranged a transfer through your accommodation in advance, you have two options for getting into the city:

#1 Taxis

A number of taxis wait outside the airport and will take you to your accommodation for 15 USD.

#2 Microlet

Microlets are Dili’s public minibuses and the much cheaper option. A ride costs just 25 cents.

You’ll need to walk from the airport to the main road and then hop on bus line 9 or 10 — depending on where in Dili you’re staying.

Ask your accommodation in advance which line stops nearby, or check the online map of buses in Dili.

Our Tip: If you don’t have any US dollars in cash on you, you can withdraw money here at the airport. For the buses, though, you’ll want to get your bills broken into coins.

Entry into East Timor

Entering East Timor is super relaxed. All you need is your passport, valid for at least six more months.

Always double-check the latest entry requirements on the official website of your country’s foreign affairs ministry before you travel.

I flew from Denpasar to Dili and received an Arrival Card at check-in in Bali, which I had to fill in with my key details — bring a pen for that!

After landing in Dili, I was handed another form — the Customs Declaration. I filled that out while waiting in line at customs.

At customs, my passport was scanned, a photo was taken, and the usual questions were asked (length and purpose of stay). Then I handed over my Arrival Card and received my stamp.

After customs, I had to have all my luggage inspected once more and submit the Customs Declaration.

The entire entry process took me about 20 minutes.

Note: Before customs there is a counter where you can purchase a Visa on Arrival. Many nationalities, including citizens of the EU, Australia, and the US, don’t need one — but always verify this before you travel.

Travel Costs & Paying in Timor-Leste

In East Timor you pay with the US dollar. Coins, however, are issued in East Timor’s own currency and are called Centavos (100 Centavos = 1 dollar). The bills are standard US dollars.

You basically can’t pay by card anywhere in Timor-Leste. That’s why you absolutely need to have enough cash on hand.

Withdrawing Money in East Timor

Your best bet is to withdraw all the cash you’ll need for your trip in Dili.

There are several ATMs there that accept Visa and Mastercard. I always withdrew money at BNU at the Timor Plaza — no fees, which was a pleasant surprise.

I also spotted ATMs in other towns, but I can’t say for certain whether you can withdraw money there with a foreign card.

Travel Costs in East Timor

Unlike most of Southeast Asia, East Timor is a relatively expensive destination — though still affordable by Western standards.

• Double room in a basic guesthouse: 25 euros
• Coffee: 1.50 euros
• Dinner at a restaurant in Dili: 8 euros
• Dinner outside Dili: 5 euros
• Freshly squeezed juice: 3.50 euros
• Bus ride in Dili: 25 cents

Accommodations in East Timor

Common booking platforms barely work for East Timor. On Booking.com you’ll find almost exclusively hotels in Dili and on Atauro. On Hostelworld you’ll have a choice of about three hostels.

Outside of Dili, you can really only book accommodation via WhatsApp or phone — or just show up and knock.

Since I traveled through East Timor without reliable internet access, I saved all the guesthouses I’d found on Google Maps in advance and asked on the spot whether a room was available. Since I was usually the only guest anyway, this was never a problem.

For a few places I also made reservations in advance via WhatsApp.

My Accommodations in Timor-Leste

• Dili: In Dili I stayed with friends. Otherwise, I would have stayed at the Da Terra Hostel, which you can book through Hostelworld.
• Hato Builico: Pousada Alecrim — 20 USD including breakfast and dinner. The beds and rooms were fine, the bathroom okay. There was electricity and running water. Hospitality was a bit lacking, as there was no real host I could communicate with — which was different from the impression I’d gotten when booking via WhatsApp.
• Betano: Osben Guest House — 25 USD including breakfast. Dinner cost 3.50 USD. The host is really friendly and speaks some English. By East Timor standards, the room is great — air conditioning and a proper shower.
• Viqueque: Guest House Luminar — 10 USD including breakfast. A very basic room with an uncomfortable bed, a fan, and a bathroom without running water — only a water basin. Electricity is available, but there was only one outlet, which I needed for the fan. On the plus side, the hosts are super friendly (one spoke Portuguese) and when I asked, they even nailed a mosquito net to the wall for me.
• Baucau: Da Terra — 20 USD including breakfast. You sleep in open, traditional huts in a bed with a mosquito net — essentially in nature, but really nicely set up. There are also bungalows with ocean views for 25 USD and dorm beds for 10 USD. Electricity is available, and showering is done with water barrels — perfectly hygienic since everything is outdoors.

Getting Around East Timor

Buses in East Timor

The bus network in East Timor is solid and easy to figure out. Almost all major towns are connected by bus. There are no fixed departure times, but depending on the route, buses run more or less regularly.

In Dili there are several bus terminals from which buses head off in various directions.

In all other towns there’s only one terminal. Most towns are so small, though, that you can simply stand by the main road and flag down the next bus.

The buses are usually more of a truck-type vehicle with an open flatbed and benches in the back — fairly uncomfortable and usually packed with all kinds of goods.

On some routes, however, proper buses run as well — though these aren’t much more comfortable.

The destination is usually displayed on the front of the bus, but always ask whether it’s actually going where you need to go.

Here’s an overview of the routes I took. I’ve linked the location of the bus terminal for each town.

• Dili (Terminal Taubisse) – Hatu-Builico junction: 3 hours, 4 USD
• Hatu-Builico junction – Same: 1.5 hours, 2.50 USD
• Same – Betano: 1 hour, 2.50 USD
• Betano – Viqueque: No buses! Buses only run from Betano to Natuharo and from Kibular to Viqueque.
• Viqueque – Baucau: 2 hours, 5 USD
• Baucau – Dili (Terminal Becaro): 2.5 hours, 5 USD

Buses in Dili and Baucau

As far as we know, Dili and Baucau are the only cities in East Timor with a local bus network. In Dili a microlet ride costs 25 cents; in Baucau it’s 50 cents.

You simply hop on, and when you need to get off, tap a coin against a metal bar at the top of the bus. The microlet stops, you get off, and hand your money to the driver.

Renting a Car or Scooter in East Timor

I only used buses in East Timor, so I can’t tell you much firsthand about renting vehicles.

In Dili you can definitely rent a scooter. I’d advise against a rental car — the roads outside Dili are in poor condition, and I wouldn’t want to navigate them in a car.

A scooter is also tough going due to the rough roads, but it’s definitely more flexible and faster than taking buses. Ask at your accommodation in Dili about scooter rentals.

Safety in East Timor

East Timor is generally a safe country to travel in. I experienced absolutely nothing in the way of crime; if anything, my experience was that everyone helps everyone else.

That said, on the streets outside Dili I often felt uncomfortable as a solo female traveler. Locals aren’t used to tourists and you’ll be stared at from all sides.

Children especially don’t hold back and shout “Malai” — which roughly means “foreigner” — the moment they see you. Even though it’s not meant to be mean, it gets very tiring, and unfortunately some kids don’t stop there.

I was begged, children ran after me, and once I was even pelted with stones. On top of that, people talk about you, laugh, and so on.

Since about 50% of the population is under 18, you’ll encounter mostly children on the streets.

Larger groups of boys can be even more unpleasant — my worst experience was at the bus station in Baucau.

Four boys tried to pull at my backpack, wouldn’t leave me alone, and made fun of me. Otherwise, I was approached a lot, and heard the odd “I love you” as well.

Apart from that, nothing ever happened to me in East Timor. Still, I wouldn’t travel through the country alone again — I only felt comfortable as a woman in Dili.

You also need to watch out when it comes to prices — as a tourist you’ll frequently be quoted a higher price, especially for transportation.

Best Time to Visit East Timor

I’d recommend visiting East Timor between September and November.

That’s the dry season (the rainy season kicks in from November) and also whale season. Off the coast of East Timor, with a bit of luck you can even spot blue whales.

The months of May through August are also a solid choice — that’s dry season too.

I’d steer clear of December through March — that’s rainy season, and the roads, which are already rough, become genuinely difficult to navigate, which makes a road trip a real slog.

My Travel Route Through East Timor

I traveled through East Timor solo for ten days and have mapped out my route above.

Since I was more interested in the culture and the people, I skipped Atauro and Jaco and explored the main island instead.

My Travel Report on East Timor

Here’s a closer look at my ten days in East Timor — so you can get a real picture of what visiting the country is actually like.

Day 1: Arrival in Dili

I landed in Dili around noon on Day 1. Since I was staying with friends in the capital, I was picked up from the airport.

That first afternoon I took a short stroll along the waterfront to the Letefoho Café — delicious coffee and cake. Afterward I wandered through Timor Plaza, East Timor’s only shopping mall.

At the supermarket Qulina Corner I picked up a fresh salad to go for dinner — delicious, but pricey!

Day 2: Sights in Dili

The next morning I grabbed my friends’ bicycle and rode to Aroma Timor — great breakfast and coffee.

After fueling up, I rode past East Timor’s university and government palace, then cycled along the waterfront all the way toward the Christ statue.

At the fruit market between the main road and the sea, I picked up some bananas for the journey — definitely haggle over the price here, otherwise you’ll pay way too much.

Our Tip: You can also explore Dili great by scooter or bus. Find out more in #5 Getting Around.

From the market it’s about six more kilometers to the Cristo Rei, and you ride the entire way on a road right along the sea — the beaches here are stunning!

When I arrived at the Christ statue, I left the bike in the parking lot and walked up the steps. The views are seriously amazing!

Afterward I relaxed on the Cristo Rei beach.

For lunch I rode to Timor Plaza and ate at Agora Food Studio — highly recommended! In the afternoon I also headed to Tasitolu Lake — there isn’t much to see there, but the road along the sea is really lovely.

Day 3: Journey and Hike to Hatu-Builico

On Day 3 I took the microlet to the Mercado Taibisse bus terminal in the morning — about a 30-minute ride.

Buses to Hatu-Builico depart from Mercado Taibisse. It’s the best base for the Ramelau hike — the highest mountain in East Timor.

At the terminal I found the right bus pretty quickly, but unfortunately it didn’t leave for another hour. While I waited, I was approached by all sorts of people — I understood almost nothing.

The ride to just before Hatu-Builico took nearly three hours. By the end I was the only passenger, so the driver decided on the spot that he didn’t actually want to go all the way to Hatu-Builico and left me standing at the junction in the rain…

I had no choice but to walk the distance — 18 kilometers along a gravel road. If you’re luckier than I was, a bus, truck, or scooter will eventually come along and give you a lift.

Around half past five I arrived at Pousada Alecrim — I had been in contact with the guesthouse via WhatsApp in advance, yet I still found myself standing in front of a locked door.

Luckily, after a few minutes two young guys came along and let me in. One of them spoke a little English and practically insisted on accompanying me as a guide for the hike the next day. 20 dollars for that seemed completely reasonable.

At the shop next to the Pousada I bought a large bottle of water, and in the evening the guide’s grandmother cooked for me — rice, potatoes, green vegetables, and chicken. It didn’t really taste great, but I was glad to have something.

Day 4: Ramelau Hike and Journey to Betano

At 5 AM I set off on the hike with the two guys. We hiked the first stretch in the dark, and the ascent was mostly wide and well-passable.

Since it goes steadily uphill (about 3,280 feet of elevation gain), the hike is still strenuous. I could have managed it on my own, but in the end I was glad to have the guides along.

The sunrise during the ascent was great, but the view from Ramelau at golden hour topped everything else. We reached the summit around 7 AM.

Unfortunately it’s quite windy and cold on the mountain — so after barely 15 minutes we headed back down, and around 9 AM I was back at the Pousada. The grandmother served me breakfast — noodle soup and an egg.

Shortly afterward I headed back on my way. Another 18 kilometers of walking still lay ahead. This time I was lucky: after an hour of walking, a truck stopped and gave me a ride between sacks and vegetables all the way to the main road. I paid 2 USD for that.

At the main road I waited about 30 minutes, then a bus to Same came (2.50 USD) — about 1.5 hours on the road. I had originally planned to spend a night in Same, but since there wasn’t much to see, I decided on the spot to push on to Betano on the south coast.

The ride (2.50 USD) took another hour, and the road got worse and worse. In Betano itself there was nothing going on at all — the bus stopped right by the sea.

I still had to walk nearly two kilometers to my accommodation, the Osben Guest House — a place that pleasantly surprised me. A delicious dinner and even a proper shower in the room.

Day 5: Journey to Viqueque

In the morning, while it wasn’t too hot yet, I strolled along the beach in Betano. I kept my distance from the water, though — there are crocodiles here. A shame, because the beach is absolutely beautiful and completely deserted.

My plan was to take the bus from Betano to Viqueque. But the host at the guesthouse explained to me that there are no buses because the road is too bad.

Luckily he had a friend who could take me to Viqueque on his scooter. And yes — the road was truly a nightmare. All in all we needed five hours for barely 100 kilometers, including an hour’s break due to a heavy downpour.

Early in the afternoon I was dropped off in Viqueque and had lunch at Vicna Joma Restaurant — rice with chicken and a bit of vegetables, as always, without much choice.

I hadn’t arranged accommodation in Viqueque in advance. Fortunately, right across from the restaurant stood the Guesthouse Luminar — the most run-down place on my whole trip. But the hosts were super friendly!

In the afternoon I walked around Viqueque and was surprised by the beautiful church in the village. By chance a soccer game was taking place right next door, which I watched from the roadside among a horde of children.

Day 6: Beaches of Baucau

On Day 6 I was served breakfast in the morning — included at all my accommodations in East Timor. Fried bananas, sweet pastries, coffee, and tea.

Then I packed my things and hopped on a bus to Baucau around 8 AM (you need to take a bus heading toward Dili).

It was the first time I sat on a proper bus rather than in the back of a truck.

In Baucau the bus unfortunately didn’t pass right by my accommodation. Instead, I walked five kilometers to the Da Terra hostel — buses were running, I just didn’t know which one to take at that moment.

Around noon I checked in and then walked to Wanabo Beach in Baucau. It’s truly stunning and I really wanted to jump in the water.

Unfortunately there are crocodiles in Baucau too, so I stayed on the paths away from the water. The local children don’t seem too bothered by the danger, though — I saw several splashing around in the sea.

Toward the afternoon I headed back to my accommodation to relax — which is really fantastic at the Da Terra Hostel.

Day 7: Baucau Town and Natural Pools

In the morning I had what was easily the best breakfast of my entire East Timor trip — the Da Terra hostel is also a farm, and the food quality is genuinely great.

Afterward I walked up to the village — apart from a church and great views, there isn’t a huge amount to see in Baucau.

On my way back to the hostel I stopped at the natural pools in Baucau — they’re really wonderful for a swim!

I spent the afternoon at the accommodation — I was slowly getting genuinely tired of being constantly approached and stared at on the street.

Day 8: Return to Dili

Earlier than originally planned, on Day 8 I headed back to Dili. I was pretty worn out from the trip and, honestly, was craving a bit of luxury. I also wanted to book a whale watching tour for my last day.

The bus ride to Dili was pretty chaotic. At the bus station in Baucau I was practically mobbed by young guys, and then it took forever for the bus to depart.

So I didn’t arrive in Dili until the afternoon and just fell into bed exhausted. My attempts to book a whale watching tour, by the way, were a complete failure.

There are very few operators, and they all combine whale watching with diving — you’d have to shell out at least 200 USD for that. Too steep for me.

Days 9–10: Dili and Departure

Since the whale watching tour fell through, I had no fixed plans on my last day in Dili.

That wasn’t a bad thing, though — I relaxed and strolled along the waterfront and had coffee at my favorite cafés (see Day 2). Honestly, the coffee was my personal highlight of the whole East Timor trip.

Luckily there was a coffee festival in Dili that day, so I also got to learn a bit about local coffee culture.

In the afternoon I made a quick trip to the Cathedral of Dili.

On Day 10 my onward flight to Darwin was already departing. I said goodbye over a delicious breakfast at Aru Bakery — they have the best croissants in East Timor!

Frequently Asked Questions about East Timor